The lock does not unlock but you can hear the solenoid making a clicking sound.
The lock isn't doing anything when voltage is applied.
- Check your voltage to the lock - The voltage to a 24V lock should be between 22V to 26V. Less than 22V may not be
enough voltage for the solenoid to work correctly. More than 26V may shorten solenoid life.
- If the voltage is within the acceptable range remove the lock/chassis from the door and test again. If the lock
appears to function correctly outside the door:
- Re-install the lock and don't tighten the screws to the through bolts as much. Certain lock types are
sensitive to over tightening. (i.e. Corbin/Russwin mortise).
- This may also be caused by misalignment with the door prep. and the lock. Please check to see if the door
prep. for the lock is correct. A door prep out of alignment with the lock can cause the above problem
- If the lock still does not function correctly we recommend that only a person experienced with the internal
workings of the specific type of lockset proceed (mortise only):
- Remove the chassis cover
- Look for door debris inside the lock from when the lock was installed and remove from the lock These wood
chips may cause the lock to malfunction.
- Make sure the solenoid assembly and the lock/ unlock mechanism are working freely.
- Re-install the cover making sure the solenoid is positioned in the cut-out area of the cover. Once the
cover is seated correctly on the case install the cover screws but don't tighten completely.
- Once working freely, tighten cover screws, re-test and re-install.
- If there is a problem with the solenoid linkage. Please send back to Command Access for repair
When energized the lock only unlocks when the handle is jiggled.
- Confirm your power supply is working correctly.
- Check that the bridge rectifier (the unit that plugs into the lock to convert the voltage from AC to DC) is working
correctly. If not Contact Command Access for a replacement
- Check the voltage at the hinge on the door side:
- If power is not present (EU (Fail Secure) only) after applying power with a switch (Card Reader, Etc.)
check the hinge at the jamb side. If power is present you may have a bad Transfer Hinge. If power is still
not present check the wiring to the jamb for a short.
- If power is not present (EL (Fail Safe) only) check the hinge at the jamb side. If power is present you
may have a bad Transfer Hinge. If power is still not present check the wiring to the jamb for a short.
The lock is energized at least 8 hours a day and the lock functions correctly but the
solenoid gets hot!
- This can be caused by weak spring cages or lever springs. This problem usually happens over time. Normally we
recommend replacing those parts or returning the lock to us for repair or replacement.
- This may also be caused by misalignment with the door prep. and the lock. Please check to see if the door prep.
for the lock is correct. A door prep out of alignment with the lock is one of the causes for the above problem. This
usually occurs immediately.
The lock was hooked up to 110V by mistake and it no longer appears to be working.
- This is not necessarily a problem. In a "continuously on" environment the solenoid will get hot. To maximize
solenoid life in these installations we recommend keeping the voltage as close to 12V or 24V (depending on solenoid
voltage) as possible. If the voltage cannot be regulated within reasonable operating range we recommend installing
our CRU-1 module between the lock and the power supply to keep the solenoid running cooler.
The lock was rated for 12V and it was hooked up to 24V by mistake and got very hot but
still is working. Did this cause permanent damage?
- The solenoid is history. Send the lock back to us and we'll fix it for you.
When checking the amperage draw (See Instructions for solenoid ratings) of the lock it
appears to be drawing considerably more than the specified amperage draw when energized for a period of time.
- Running that hot may have shortened the solenoid life but if it still works it will probably be OK for quite
Can I change the handing of the lock? (mortise Locks Only)
- The voltage to the solenoid may be abnormally high. The operating range should be within + or – 10% of the rated
voltage of the solenoid
- The solenoid may be defective. Contact tech support
Can I change my lock from EL (fail safe) to EU (fail Secure)?
- Some of the mortise locks we modify are able to be handed in the field without taking the lock apart.
See list below:
- Command Access modified Schlage ML53, 70, 80 & 82
- Command Access Modified Corbin/Russwin ML01, 03, 04 & 05
- Command Access Modified Sargent ML370, 371, 372 & 373
- Command Access Modified Yale ML90, 91, 94 & 95.
- We recommend that all other chassis be handed at Command Access unless you are an experienced technician.
I added extra lubrication to the lock and now it does not work.
- The only lock that can be changed from fail safe to fail secure is the Command Access modified Schlage mortise
lock. This requires removing the cover to the lock. (see the instructions sheet in forms & templates on how to do
- All other locks require a different solenoid. You can order a new solenoid or have it replace at Command Access
- The solenoid is probably damaged. If you are an experienced technician you can order a replacement solenoid or
you can have the solenoid replaced at Command Access (recommended) usually done on and shipped back the same day
it is received.
The latch bolt/vertical rods do not pull back all the way. The panic device locks and
I have power going to the panic device and nothing happens.
- Your power supply may be inadequate or it may have fused or poly fused outputs. In this is the case you will
need to change your power supply.
- The panic device is out of adjustment. All of the panic devices shipped out from Command Access are adjusted
for rim device panics only. The adjustment for surface vertical rod devices needs to be done in the field.
- See instructions for adjusting the panic device.
The solenoid seems vary week.
- The iM100 & PM100 (the modules that drive the solenoid) are polarity sensitive. In the event the input leads
(red + & black -) are reversed the iM100 or PM100 will not work nether will your panic device. Simply reverse the
leads and the unit should function correctly.
Do I need a special Transfer hinge for a panic device?
- Your power supply may be inadequate; a PM-100 may resolve the problem by locally boasting the current to the
- Your wire run may be to long and/or the gauge of the wire may be too thin. Often times using a PM-100 in lieu
of a iM-100 will resolve the problem
- For the device to function it's best, yes. We recommend using a Command Access modified hinge ETH2WH (2 wire
Do I need a special power supply that delivers the high amperage surge for this trim?
What is the red pack on the inside of the 992L EL (fail safe) panic trim?
- No, you don't need a special power supply for this trim. Just about any commercial grade 12V or 24V (depending
on trim operating voltage) power supply rated at 1amp will be fine for this application.
Can I hand this trim in the field?
- The red pack on the 992L EL trim is a CRU-1 (Current reduction unit) allowing the trim to run cool in a fail
- See CRU-1 in the accessories section below
- The 992 and 996 trim can be handed in the field by a knowledgeable technician.
I don't get a proper voltage reading.
How do I check the amperage draw from the unit?
- You may be trying to get a reading from the two yellow wires that come off the CRU-1. this will not work.
- To get a voltage reading off the CRU-1: Make sure your tester is reading AC instead of DC. The reason
for this is that pulse width modulation makes the current act like AC waves.
- Connect your neg. lead to the black input wire of the CRU-1 and your pos. lead to yellow wire 1 (this
will be the yellow wire on your right side if the unit is facing you). You should get a reading between
23-24 VAC. Adjusting the potentiometer should not change the voltage.
- Connect a meter in series with the CRU-1 and the solenoid. This will show the amps. The potentiometer adjusts
the current. To increase the current turn counter clockwise. To decrease the current turn clockwise.